Painting with a round brush (back to top)
A round watercolour brush will hold the maximum amount of paint and also has a point for detailed work. You will find that it is the most useful brush in your collection, with many sizes available in both natural and synthetic fibres. Large sizes will produce a beautiful flat wash and will cover large areas quickly, but for detailed work, choose a much smaller size with a fine point. Found brushes are ideal for filling in outlined designs and so avoid gaps in the colour, and make for an even wash without creating bubbles in the paint.
Painting with a flat brush (back to top)
A flat watercolour brush is ideal for painting stripes, zigzags and patterns that depend on wider lines of a uniform thickness. Choose a width of brush slightly narrower than the line you want to make. Use the brush flat to create thick lines, or at an angle, like an italic pen, for thinner ones. You can also make square dots that can form the basis of a variety of different patterns.
Painting with a long-haired brush (back to top)
A thin, round watercolour brush with extra long fibres (e.g. a designer sable) is used to great effect for painting straight and wavy lines. Because the brush is so fine, you can only use it to paint lines of a certain width, which helps it to keep the pattern even. It will hold quite a fair amount of paint, so you can paint a long way with one stroke. Plant stems and tendrils are best painted using these brushes, as well as abstract patterns.
Painting with a fan-shaped brush (back to top)
A fan-shaped watercolour brush is one of the more unusual brushes to have in your collection but it can be most useful for some projects. Used flat, it will produce a soft, cloudy texture which is perfect for naturalistic designs, looking just like distant grass, water, sky or sand, depending on the colours chosen. It is also good for covering a large area with a gentle texture, which is sometimes difficult to achieve. Used on the edge of an item, it will highlight its outline and emphasize its shape or create an attractive, soft-edged frame for your design.
Painting with an angled brush (back to top)
An angled watercolour brush is basically the same as a flat brush, but the ends of the fibres are cut off at an angle. With this brush, it is easy to make simple diamond shaped that are very effective for formal patterns, wand with a little practice you will be able to make natural-looking leaves and petals for delighted floral designs.
Sponging with a natural sponge (back to top)
Sponging is a quick way to colour a large area. Depending on the openness of the sponge, you can make a boldly textured pattern or create a fine speckled effect. Try applying a second coat when the first one has dried for a more solid colour, or blend two or more colours, without mixing the paint on a palette, by gradually overlapping the different shades.
Always wet a natural sponge and squeeze out the moisture to make the sponge soft and pliable before using paint. Then pour a little paint into a palette (or a glazed tile) and dip just the tip of the sponge into it. Dab off the excess paint on scrap paper or the side of the palette, then work on the glass with a light dabbling motion. Dab off the excess every time you replenish the paint on the sponge to keep the texture even and avoid unsightly blobs.
Natural sponges are quite expensive so if you want them to last as long as possible use only water-based paints and rinse them out in warm water as soon as possible after use.
Sponging with a synthetic sponge (back to top)
A synthetic sponge is cheaper than a natural one and creates finer-texture effects. Colours can be blended in the same way and a darker effect can be achieved by pressing more heavily.
Cut a sponge into many small cubes with scissors. To imitate the texture of natural spnge, pull out tiny pieces from the surface. Simply throw the sponge away after painting.
Painting with cotton buds (back to top)
Working with cotton buds is a cross between drawing and painting. The cotton tip soaks up the paint so it is remarkably easy to control. Each cotton bud will only last for a short time. When the tip gets too worn and enlarged, simply use a new one. Start by using cotton buds to make rows of uniform dots, then progress to multicoloured patterns, stripes and squiggles.
Sponging with a foam applicator (back to top)
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Similar to the cotton bud technique except the dots are larger dots and that each applicator will last for a complete job. To make one, cut out two small squares from a thin sponge kitchen cloth and place the tip of a wooden skewer in the centre of a square. Gather the spoge around the tip of the skewer, then bind with a piece of thin wireto make a rounded, spongy end.
Stencilling (back to top)
Use your own stencil or a ready-made stencil and spray the reverse with stencil mount. Leave for a few minutes until it becomes tacky and press the stencil in position on the glass. Using a piece of sponge, dab the colours all over the stencil, taking care not to use too much paint. Once you are happy with the paint coverage, lift off the stencil carefully to reveal the pattern. Do this before the paint completely dries or you may get jagged edges. If there are stray bits of paint around the edges, scrap off with the tip of a knife.
Masking shapes for sponging (back to top)
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Masking tape can also be used to make effective one-off patterns on glassware. Simply press in places where you want the glass to remain clear. When you have masked your whole design, sponge colour lightly into the spaces around or between the tape. As before, once you are happy with the paint coverage, lift off the tape carefully to reveal the pattern. Do this before the paint completely dries or you may get jagged edges. If there are stray bits of paint around the edges, scrap off with the tip of a knife.
Scratching designs into wet colour (back to top)
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After painting or sponging on a layer of flat colour, you can add a decorative element by scratching designs into the paint down to the surface of the glass whilst the paint is still wet. Use a plastic spatula to create sharp lines and swirls, the tip of a cotton bud to make stripes, zigzags and dots, and the point of a cocktail stick or wooden skewer to make fine, detailed patterns and for writing.
Etching or frosting designs (back to top)
Use matt/frosting medium to create subtle, frosted patterns. You can paint it on with a brush to make detailed patterns or stripes, or sponge it on through a stencil.
Using outliners (back to top)
Unscrew the outliner nozzle and pierce the top of the tube, then quickly replace the nozzle. Squeeze the tube very gently to bring the paint to the tip of the nozzle, wipe the tip on a tissue, then begin to draw. It is best to perfect the technique on a piece of glass or acetate before working on the glassware.
Touch the paint to the glass, then lift the nozzle very slightly to draw the line of paint along, letting the paint fall onto the glass so it forms an even line rather than dragging the nozzle along the surface of the glass, which will produce an untidy line. You can also make tiny dots to embellish an outline or decorate a simple pattern. Simply touch the tip of the nozzle to the glass and lift it off sharply. Do not squeeze the tube hard as too much paint will come out, and keep a piece of tissue handy to wipe the tip frequently to keep it clean. If you make a mistake, wait for about 10 mins for the paint to dry slightly before scraping it off with a knife.
Using gels (back to top)
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Clear and opaque water-based gels can be built up on glass to create thick, three-dimensional effects. It is an easy process requiring minimal artistic skill and is fun to do. Apply the gel straight from the tube, randomly onto the glass and use a brush, sponge or palette knife to spread it out over the surface. To make patterns, drag a comb made from card across the wet gel. Use a nozzle screwed onto the end of a tube of gel to make fine lines. Squeeze the tube gently, cleaning the tip when necessary. The nozzle can be used also to create rows of small dots. The density of the gel can be altered with the addition of water or making the layer thinner or thicker.
Glueing on nuggets, beads, sequins or shells (back to top)
As well as painting, glass nuggets, sequins and beads can also be used to create exciting three-dimensional effects on the glassware. Simply glue the pieces onto the glassware with a blob of gel crystal for that sumptuous look.
Create an antique look by finishing a piece of work with crackling medium. Follow the instructions on the bottle.
These techniques were reproduced from "Painting Glass" by Caroline Green, which can be found at Borders Bookstore or Kinokuniya Bookstore at about S$32.99. It also contains 15 projects, taught step by step in full-coloured photographs. Great buy.